WEEK ONE: DAYS ONE THROUGH SEVEN (April 29 to May 5) Southern California PCT

Thursday, April 29th
Well! We started at Campo and immediately discovered the truth about Southern California. Hot, hot, hot. We knew this, really, but we didn’t know the truth of hiking hour after hour exposed to the heat. Legend and Mark run a trail camp adjacent to an equestrian center just a half mile from the trail head and invited us to camp there overnight–in the shade under the big oak trees–but we wanted to start on our official permit day.

Snakes! Chris met his first rattler on the trail at mile 6. At mile 8 Freddy and Cat heard a rattle and did a quick amygdala inspired hop and skip down three feet of trail, with Chris taking a quick detour through the brush uphill.

We made it to an abandoned farm/ranch site that Legend told us about–just 9 miles up the trail. Highlight–besides the groaning, broken windmill and abandoned sheds–was the rapidly evaporating small pond. There were no actively wriggling critters in the water and we double filtered it using first my bandanna and then the water filter. Workhard from New York joined us at the same campsite.

Friday, April 30
Up early the next morning to get to the challenging climb out of Hauser Canyon and a total 11 miles and then a long rest in the shade at Lake Morena with Workhard and Uncle Nomad while we figured out what we wanted to do next. They went on…we stayed and treated ourselves to sandwiches at the Malt Shop/Liquor Store/Backpacking supplies shop just down the street, and a showers and early bedtime at the campground.

Saturday, May 1
Up early the next day to hike 12 or so miles to Cibbets Flat–where Trail Angels Roger and Rich provided sandwiches and conversation…

Sunday, May 2
…then up early again the next morning (Sunday) for another 12 miles to Burnt Rancheria where we camped adjacent to Diane, Sandy and Charger. Happy Birthday Mom!

Monday, May 3
We stalled at Burnt Rancheria for half a day Monday due to a fire just over the next range; the PCTA wanted hikers off the trail from Sunrise Trailhead to Scissors Crossing–exactly our next leg. It took a while, and much talking with other hikers (plus rangers, camp managers and the guy at the general store) to determine what to do. We finally hiked 7 miles to Laguna Camp Ground and shared a campsite generously offered by Derek and Keeley. Keeley made her own fretless banjo! And she’s learning clawhammer and really likes old-time tunes!

Tuesday, May 4th
Again, up very early (for us, that’s 6am) to head up to Sunrise Trailhead which we did in two pieces so we could assess the fire situation from Pioneer Mail Trailhead. The night before, Derek and Keeley had shared some stories of the Sheriff’s helicopter flying low and ordering everyone off the trail on Saturday eve when the fire started. Information seemed to be incomplete; apparently one group of hikers was told by a police officer on Sunday that the trail was safe, but the PCTA website still wanted folks off the trail and the fire was only 25% contained. We decided to move our town/research day up and wait for more fire news in town. We were hot and ready for town, showers, heavy food and beds by the time we got to Sunrise. Surprise! It’s May the Force be With You Day! We blearily watched Star Wars movies (instigated by Freddy) for a few hours before finally realizing the small town of Julian would probably be closing up early. And yup, as of 7pm most stores/restaurants were closed. Had lasagna at a Mexican place, got back to the hotel and watched a little more Star Wars…Oh, Happy Birthday Amy!

Wednesday, May 5th
Well, slept in to about 630am and unpacked the cars (more on our two car shuttle system later) and got ourselves into town for brunch. Had my first research day at Julian Public Library (branch of the San Diego County Public Library System) and had a great talk with branch manager Josh. Big discovery about today–there’s no laundromat in Julian and while our motel usually offers coin laundry, it is closed due to COVID. Sigh. Back to hand-washing our already very salty hiking clothes. Had a great talk with Mary at 2Foot Adventures outfitting store while we resupplied with more oatmeal and bars. Is the PCT a pilgrimage? Absolutely, she says. More on that soon!