WEEK TWO*: DAYS EIGHT THROUGH SIXTEEN (May 6th through May 16th)

*WEEK-ISH

Thursday, May 6th: We started from Sunrise Trailhead about 9am–late–and already getting warm. Got to Rodriquez Road and took an extra mile to get down to the spring–a beautiful little trickle from a pipe under an oak tree, surrounded by lupine. We took refuge from the heat there for about 90 minutes, only to climb the hill again and find Flamingo and Sara–trail angels handing out Gatoraid, water and ice cream sandwiches. Hot, hot, hot! We camped about 5 miles from Scissors Crossing. Lots of stars, lots of jack rabbits, and we were in bed by 830pm.

Friday, May 7th: Up before 6am and on trail by 715am and ran into Colton and Rikki. We hightailed it into Scissors Crossing (nothing but a road crossing with an underpass and cache of water). A trail angel was waiting right there to take Colton and Rikki into town, and I waited in the happy shade of the underpass for Chris and Fred. Then up into the hills, full sun, with the trail winding in and out along the sides of canyon after canyon after canyon. High winds through out the day. Took a siesta for a couple hours under some rocks, then did another five miles or so. Settled on a small campsite along the side of yet another canyon, and washed up watching the sun slide away in the valley below.

Saturday, May 8th: Still in Anza Borego Desert State Park. Headed out of the valley and into the rain shadow–more bushes and a few trees. Got to another water cache (3/4 mile hike down and another 3/4 mile back up). Hiked fast and got to the next water source Barrel Springs by 1230pm. Big oaks, tiny trickle of water coming from a pvc pipe into a cement trough lined with three black plastic tubs. Saw Rikki again and visited at length, since we had decided to siesta until 4pm or so. The trail then proceeded across a series of dry pastures with many cows, and posts designated the trail as we traversed small ridges, finally gently descending into the valley with San Ysidro Creek. It looked like a perfect place to camp–big trees, running water–and Rikki was already choosing her tent site. And then, down from where the creek disappeared into grassy hills came five cows and two steer. My childhood experience with feral pigs and general cowardice around large animals had me clambering onto a big boulder. The cattle nonchalantly wandered over to Freddy’s pack and surrounded it cautiously–one cow sniffed it, then started licking it, then finally boldly picked it up in her mouth. Freddy was now forcefully bellowing at the cattle. Rikki came to investigate the hubbub, saw that we were encountering cows and promptly went back to her camp to start packing up. No cows for her–at least, not on Saturday. Hikers Zelda and Lifeguard thought this might be a good time to leave, as well. The two steer charged Freddy and he ambled–remarkably calmly–over to my boulder. Chris arrived. No more hiking for him, but Freddy and I were concerned about being trampled by large mammals in the night. I ran up the hill to see if there were any other tent sites (nope) and we realized, wait, the cows are just trying to get back down the narrow valley. They ambled off, and we camped under the oaks, creating little cow barriers with dead wood. We had a cow free evening, feeling victorious and cooking dinner on the patch of granite where the cows had encircled Freddy’s pack.

Sunday, May 8th: Up early, but not too early, since we only had to get to Warner Springs to resupply from the car and move both vehicles up trail. More meadows to Eagle Rock–plus a quick visit with a trio of AT hikers (now hiking the PCT), then on to Warner Springs. When retrieving the second car from Sunrise Trailhead we realized it was Mother’s Day–the town of Julian was hopping with mothers and families. Freddy took me to lunch to celebrate!

Monday, May 10th: Started around 630am–again, to beat the heat. More pasture and rolling hills, more cows (we were calmer this time), more big oaks and a few random picnic tables remaining from discontinued campgrounds. We started climbing again and got to Lost Valley Spring–a beautiful little shady spot with a concrete spring well house. Met Dan–long time contra dancer–and got to talk about old time Southern Appalachian music. We spent the rest of the afternoon taking siesta under a Ponderosa (Freddy and I playing a long drawn out game of chess on his phone). Dan walked by singing “Greasy Coat”! Hiked another three miles to see a beautiful little well and then camp up on a big ridge with large boulders as the sun set.

Tuesday, May 11th: Left our ridge about 630am, and got to “Mike’s Place” at 830am–just in time for Freddy to have the last vegan chorizo and mango burrito. Mike’s Place has served as a hiker watering and camping stop for years. Mike is off wandering somewhere but we met the unusual character Alice (who took me aside to remark on the legs of male hikers and seemed to specialize in sexual harassment of young men) and the far gentler character Spirit. Artistically interpreted junked cars, and a envy-worthy collection of cast iron pots and pans were highlights of Mike’s Place, and the best part was a hose…with running, potable water!
(I should note that we’ve heard about Alice all the way up the trail).

Wednesday, May 12th: Got to Idyllwild! Stayed at the Idyllwild Bunkhouse and met Raj and his family. We were pretty useless once we got to the motel–watched Deadpool II (Freddy was forced to interpret all the cinematic subtleties for Chris and me).

Thursday, May 13th: had a lovely visit with Shannon and Susan at the Idyllwild Library. Was pleased to see Zultan and Thomas–two hikers–come in to visit the library!

Friday, May 14th: Left Idyllwild mid-day, but not before meeting the mayor (Max, a golden retriever). Hiked a long and high ridge–beautiful in the late afternoon sun. Walked 12 miles plus another 1.3 down to Cedar Springs and camped with Dan, McQueen and French Toast, Murdock and a few late-comers who arrived after dark. We could see the lights of Palm Springs below.

Saturday, May 15th: Oh my goodness. Steady climb 4000 feet up Apache Mountain (San Bernadino NF) with heavy winds. Narrow trail with significant drop-offs–this is where hiker Microsoft fell last March (with snow on the trail at the time–thankfully, not the case this year). I had trumpet concertos in my head all day in his memory. I’m sorry, Mom of Microsoft. And Dad. As the mama of two geeky, outdoorsy 19 and 23 year old young men, I want you to know I was singing my heart out for your son. A huge rock slide blocked part of the trail and we jerryrigged ourselves around boulders using a somewhat frayed climbing rope. (I mentioned the steep drop offs, right?) Mountain goat Freddy hung out for a while to help other hikers manage the slide. We were so glad to make it to Talquitz Creek to camp with a number of other hikers–several of whom dropped on the spot and crawled into their sleeping bags, they were so exhausted.

Sunday, May 16th: Hiked only about 14 miles today since yesterday was so difficult. We had a heavy water carry for the last five miles since Fuller Ridge campground had no water. We stumbled down the last few miles to the camp and, lo and behold, there was Detour, a trail angel serving hotdogs and tortillas. And water! We had a nice visit and were thankful to not be eating ramen. Early to bed–15 miles of downhill switchbacks tomorrow!